The apartment is the top floor of a shop-house, the ground floor contains a shop, which one I have yet to take the time to figure out. Entry is through a men’s barbershop across a hair strewn floor, but through a windy series of stairways that isn’t the shop we ended up above (above which we ended) - I need to go to the street sometime and see what is actually below us. The second floor is residential and we seem to have the entire third floor. Huge tiled main room which opens through French doors onto balcony above the street. The apartment came with table and 4 chairs in that room and reasonably enough that is where we eat. Also in that huge room is the refrigerator and a new bed which was delivered on our move in day (paid for out of my first month rent )- that bed has remained unused - that will be the extra bed in case of visitors. In the same main rom is a brand new refrigerator also delivered on first day. The rolling kitchen unit lives in that room but can roll outside to cook.
Above the main room is a loft accessed by a steep set of steps which we have thus far used for storage but I think Da’s 19 year old brother will come stay with us and sleep up there.
Behind the main room is an outside area (albeit covered with corrugated aluminum roof) this is the outdoor cooking and laundry drying area - the bathroom/shower/toilet/laundry room is off the corner of this area - typical Southeast Asian facilities (but thankfully with a western toilet - that would have been a deal-breaker - no way I would squat for 2 months). No hot water but in this climate you certainly don’t need it.
Behind the outdoor area is the main bedroom - windows to the back onto some kind of communal walkway which seems to run most of the length of the block. We have good curtains. This room has the air-conditioner, large wardrobe, shelf unit and queen sized bed. This will be donated to guests should they appear.
In the Asian way all the windows and doors are barred and our final leg of the flights of steps has some kind of sliding security gate which looks as if it came from a medieval dungeon - I swear it would take a tank to get through it - that along with a very large padlock.
Returning to the subject of entering - initially we did enter through the barbershop and I noticed that tonight when Da went to pick up diner she went out that way - no idea whether that is the official okay way to come and go or whether it is just tolerated - guess I can test it by getting my soon to be needed haircut there (has it really been 5 weeks since I left Seattle?}. The other way of entry (and the only way after the store closes and bars its front) is through the back alley behind the apartments. This was almost as far as I got I was all ready to say no to the apartment when I saw it - a real third world slum alley although to be charitable it doesn’t stink and I have not encountered any dogs or other livestock (or rodents) - it is very dark and very low for me - the stairs are kind of scary but as you climb things get better and our place was already decidedly clean and airy - the landlady spent a day cleaning and then Da spent a further day so now it is spotless (relatively).
The residents do not yet seem to have adjusted to having this large headed pasty white Anglais living among them - although there are certainly thousands around town just not in their ’hood - there are astonished stares from little kids and giggles and pointing from girls and women - last night we were on the front balcony watching the lightning and I looked up to the roof - there were 5 girls on the roof leaning their heads over the edge and giggling - even though I was fully clothed!!!! I have become used to giggling when I am not but this was a first. Da seems to have befriended at least two of them as I just went to the bedroom and found that she has two of them in there watching TV with her - I was met with screams and giggles - I retreated back to my front balcony.
My only disquiet thus far is the fact that I cannot get Da to close the bedroom door when she has lights on - she has no care that bugs may be attracted - being native she is immune to such cares - the three of them are in there now with all the lights on and the door wide open - guess I will just have to get used to it - it was the same in Thailand - It does keep the power usage down that’s for sure - she uses a fan rather than the A/C - I don’t mind the little geckos - they are scared of me but the mosquitoes do bite - no malaria risk in PP but annoying when they buzz in your ear. Apparently power averages about US$30 for the month if you use A/C a lot - we don’t so I guess it will be way lower. I saw the water bill for 2 months from the previous occupant - the landlady was staying in just the airconditioned bedroom - her bill was about US$1.50 (dolar fifty for 2 months). We have cable - although I have no idea whether it is official or bootlegged - I suspect the latter. CNN/ESPN/HBO and almost every language you could name along with many Thai and Khmer channels - reception isn’t great but I suspect that may be the length of the cable - mybe I will invest in a signal booster box.
No internet at home but that’s okay it is apparently expensive. I will go to one of the many restaurants tomorrow which have free wifi and post this entry.
For now - her new friends seem to have gone - time for me to shower.
Netxt morning: Sitting at riverfront cafe having just had great coffee and club sandwich - the Cambodians do serve amazing coffee - something good left by the Fench. Everywhere on the river has free wi-fi - for customers - this is where most of whitey is to be found down by the river not where I am living albeit it is only 3 blocks away. Da and her brother going shopping for more stuff while i am here - they dont want me with tem - they will pay about half the price if I am not there - excited to get an electric kettle and coffee mugs today so I can indulge myself - its the little pleasures which count.
Last night we only used the fan, no air conditioning and we were perfectly comfortable - power bills stand to go even lower.
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