Saturday, October 24, 2009
Sleepy Saturday afternoon in Phnom Penh
Sitting in the lobby of my previous hotel using their free wi-fi and sipping on Schweppes Tonic. Breakfasted today on freshly made coffee - albeit Nestle crystals - not going to invest too heavily in coffee alchemy equipment at this time - orange juice and baguette and cheese - very nice - while Da was at market (loving my hot water kettle - I seem to be obsessed). She returned and made a wonderful lunch of cauliflower and pork sauteed in a delicious gravy substance - over the omnipresent rice was fabulous with just the right amount of fish sauce and peppers - culinary heaven - and for pennies. She tells me she works on Saturday nights - all news to me - she models at a beer garden - as far as I can determine this involves dressing up sexily (by conservative Khmer standards) - makeup - hair done up - bare midriff and posing on stage with the star singer - apparently she sings one song herself - they all watch TV and then repeat then come home - US$15 for 3 hours work - a great pay rate for a Cambodian farm girl - and no customer contact - no drinking she assures me - she wanted me to go along to watch - I will next week - this week it fits perfectly with me getting to watch English football undisturbed.
Phnom Penh Friday Night (I guess - have pretty much quit paying attention to days of the week).
Five thirty Friday evening in Phnom Penh - it is raining and the motorbikes seem to have been washed away - how else to explain the absence of the usual rush hour gridlock - where did they all go? The barbecued beef restaurant across the street just poured the charcoal into the cooker - I can smell last night’s remnants burning off the grill - such welcome delicious smoke (chnaang) - by six o’clock the last few nights the street in front was packed with bikes angle parked to the curb with millimeters between them as hungry homeward bound workers and students stopped by for dinner - where will his customers come from tonight? A single Toyota occupies the space - 3 people rather than 20 bikes with 2 or 3 people per bike..
The sounds of Khmer music come at me from every adjacent apartment and from across the street - surely one of the most foreign sounding of languages to our euro-centric experience made the more so by the overlaying of ten different simultaneous songs. I sit here on my balcony inches inside the dry zone from the roof overhang watching water pour from the extended PVC piping - I have finally stopped sweating - feeling cleansed from within - this place has all the benefits of a sauna - “Babs - her skin is like butter” - said in Mike Myers’ SNL voice. I could stay on this balcony for hours watching the activity below, breathing the cooking smells and listening to the soundtrack - in fact I probably will.
The sounds of Khmer music come at me from every adjacent apartment and from across the street - surely one of the most foreign sounding of languages to our euro-centric experience made the more so by the overlaying of ten different simultaneous songs. I sit here on my balcony inches inside the dry zone from the roof overhang watching water pour from the extended PVC piping - I have finally stopped sweating - feeling cleansed from within - this place has all the benefits of a sauna - “Babs - her skin is like butter” - said in Mike Myers’ SNL voice. I could stay on this balcony for hours watching the activity below, breathing the cooking smells and listening to the soundtrack - in fact I probably will.
Thursday, October 22, 2009
Phnom Penh update
Well this is night 5 in Phnom Penh and I have been way too busy to write much thus far. Three nights in hotel then we moved into a rental apartment - quite an experience. What followed then was a period of shopping for everything we needed to support human life - for the most part in a Khmer fashion. Unbelievable how cheaply we were able to achieve that goal - for about US$50 we had cooking facilities (a butane burner suitable for cooking indoors or out), an electric rice cooker, knives of various sizes and shapes, a wok, a frying pan, a large pot for soups, a chopping board and various other plastic storage receptacles. Don’t ask me how she did it - I just stood for about an hour slowly melting in the bowels of the Phnom Penh Psar Thmey (New Market) while she haggled bargained and occasionally made as if to leave.
The apartment is the top floor of a shop-house, the ground floor contains a shop, which one I have yet to take the time to figure out. Entry is through a men’s barbershop across a hair strewn floor, but through a windy series of stairways that isn’t the shop we ended up above (above which we ended) - I need to go to the street sometime and see what is actually below us. The second floor is residential and we seem to have the entire third floor. Huge tiled main room which opens through French doors onto balcony above the street. The apartment came with table and 4 chairs in that room and reasonably enough that is where we eat. Also in that huge room is the refrigerator and a new bed which was delivered on our move in day (paid for out of my first month rent )- that bed has remained unused - that will be the extra bed in case of visitors. In the same main rom is a brand new refrigerator also delivered on first day. The rolling kitchen unit lives in that room but can roll outside to cook.
Above the main room is a loft accessed by a steep set of steps which we have thus far used for storage but I think Da’s 19 year old brother will come stay with us and sleep up there.
Behind the main room is an outside area (albeit covered with corrugated aluminum roof) this is the outdoor cooking and laundry drying area - the bathroom/shower/toilet/laundry room is off the corner of this area - typical Southeast Asian facilities (but thankfully with a western toilet - that would have been a deal-breaker - no way I would squat for 2 months). No hot water but in this climate you certainly don’t need it.
Behind the outdoor area is the main bedroom - windows to the back onto some kind of communal walkway which seems to run most of the length of the block. We have good curtains. This room has the air-conditioner, large wardrobe, shelf unit and queen sized bed. This will be donated to guests should they appear.
In the Asian way all the windows and doors are barred and our final leg of the flights of steps has some kind of sliding security gate which looks as if it came from a medieval dungeon - I swear it would take a tank to get through it - that along with a very large padlock.
Returning to the subject of entering - initially we did enter through the barbershop and I noticed that tonight when Da went to pick up diner she went out that way - no idea whether that is the official okay way to come and go or whether it is just tolerated - guess I can test it by getting my soon to be needed haircut there (has it really been 5 weeks since I left Seattle?}. The other way of entry (and the only way after the store closes and bars its front) is through the back alley behind the apartments. This was almost as far as I got I was all ready to say no to the apartment when I saw it - a real third world slum alley although to be charitable it doesn’t stink and I have not encountered any dogs or other livestock (or rodents) - it is very dark and very low for me - the stairs are kind of scary but as you climb things get better and our place was already decidedly clean and airy - the landlady spent a day cleaning and then Da spent a further day so now it is spotless (relatively).
The residents do not yet seem to have adjusted to having this large headed pasty white Anglais living among them - although there are certainly thousands around town just not in their ’hood - there are astonished stares from little kids and giggles and pointing from girls and women - last night we were on the front balcony watching the lightning and I looked up to the roof - there were 5 girls on the roof leaning their heads over the edge and giggling - even though I was fully clothed!!!! I have become used to giggling when I am not but this was a first. Da seems to have befriended at least two of them as I just went to the bedroom and found that she has two of them in there watching TV with her - I was met with screams and giggles - I retreated back to my front balcony.
My only disquiet thus far is the fact that I cannot get Da to close the bedroom door when she has lights on - she has no care that bugs may be attracted - being native she is immune to such cares - the three of them are in there now with all the lights on and the door wide open - guess I will just have to get used to it - it was the same in Thailand - It does keep the power usage down that’s for sure - she uses a fan rather than the A/C - I don’t mind the little geckos - they are scared of me but the mosquitoes do bite - no malaria risk in PP but annoying when they buzz in your ear. Apparently power averages about US$30 for the month if you use A/C a lot - we don’t so I guess it will be way lower. I saw the water bill for 2 months from the previous occupant - the landlady was staying in just the airconditioned bedroom - her bill was about US$1.50 (dolar fifty for 2 months). We have cable - although I have no idea whether it is official or bootlegged - I suspect the latter. CNN/ESPN/HBO and almost every language you could name along with many Thai and Khmer channels - reception isn’t great but I suspect that may be the length of the cable - mybe I will invest in a signal booster box.
No internet at home but that’s okay it is apparently expensive. I will go to one of the many restaurants tomorrow which have free wifi and post this entry.
For now - her new friends seem to have gone - time for me to shower.
Netxt morning: Sitting at riverfront cafe having just had great coffee and club sandwich - the Cambodians do serve amazing coffee - something good left by the Fench. Everywhere on the river has free wi-fi - for customers - this is where most of whitey is to be found down by the river not where I am living albeit it is only 3 blocks away. Da and her brother going shopping for more stuff while i am here - they dont want me with tem - they will pay about half the price if I am not there - excited to get an electric kettle and coffee mugs today so I can indulge myself - its the little pleasures which count.
Last night we only used the fan, no air conditioning and we were perfectly comfortable - power bills stand to go even lower.
Going to attempt to upload some pictures - will find out what kind of connection I have shortly - I think YouTube videos will have to wait - uploading and encoding takes forever which isnt practical from a cafe - cant possibly drink enough coffee to justify sitting here for 6 hours - will try uploading small mp4s directly to the blog maybe tomorow.
The apartment is the top floor of a shop-house, the ground floor contains a shop, which one I have yet to take the time to figure out. Entry is through a men’s barbershop across a hair strewn floor, but through a windy series of stairways that isn’t the shop we ended up above (above which we ended) - I need to go to the street sometime and see what is actually below us. The second floor is residential and we seem to have the entire third floor. Huge tiled main room which opens through French doors onto balcony above the street. The apartment came with table and 4 chairs in that room and reasonably enough that is where we eat. Also in that huge room is the refrigerator and a new bed which was delivered on our move in day (paid for out of my first month rent )- that bed has remained unused - that will be the extra bed in case of visitors. In the same main rom is a brand new refrigerator also delivered on first day. The rolling kitchen unit lives in that room but can roll outside to cook.
Above the main room is a loft accessed by a steep set of steps which we have thus far used for storage but I think Da’s 19 year old brother will come stay with us and sleep up there.
Behind the main room is an outside area (albeit covered with corrugated aluminum roof) this is the outdoor cooking and laundry drying area - the bathroom/shower/toilet/laundry room is off the corner of this area - typical Southeast Asian facilities (but thankfully with a western toilet - that would have been a deal-breaker - no way I would squat for 2 months). No hot water but in this climate you certainly don’t need it.
Behind the outdoor area is the main bedroom - windows to the back onto some kind of communal walkway which seems to run most of the length of the block. We have good curtains. This room has the air-conditioner, large wardrobe, shelf unit and queen sized bed. This will be donated to guests should they appear.
In the Asian way all the windows and doors are barred and our final leg of the flights of steps has some kind of sliding security gate which looks as if it came from a medieval dungeon - I swear it would take a tank to get through it - that along with a very large padlock.
Returning to the subject of entering - initially we did enter through the barbershop and I noticed that tonight when Da went to pick up diner she went out that way - no idea whether that is the official okay way to come and go or whether it is just tolerated - guess I can test it by getting my soon to be needed haircut there (has it really been 5 weeks since I left Seattle?}. The other way of entry (and the only way after the store closes and bars its front) is through the back alley behind the apartments. This was almost as far as I got I was all ready to say no to the apartment when I saw it - a real third world slum alley although to be charitable it doesn’t stink and I have not encountered any dogs or other livestock (or rodents) - it is very dark and very low for me - the stairs are kind of scary but as you climb things get better and our place was already decidedly clean and airy - the landlady spent a day cleaning and then Da spent a further day so now it is spotless (relatively).
The residents do not yet seem to have adjusted to having this large headed pasty white Anglais living among them - although there are certainly thousands around town just not in their ’hood - there are astonished stares from little kids and giggles and pointing from girls and women - last night we were on the front balcony watching the lightning and I looked up to the roof - there were 5 girls on the roof leaning their heads over the edge and giggling - even though I was fully clothed!!!! I have become used to giggling when I am not but this was a first. Da seems to have befriended at least two of them as I just went to the bedroom and found that she has two of them in there watching TV with her - I was met with screams and giggles - I retreated back to my front balcony.
My only disquiet thus far is the fact that I cannot get Da to close the bedroom door when she has lights on - she has no care that bugs may be attracted - being native she is immune to such cares - the three of them are in there now with all the lights on and the door wide open - guess I will just have to get used to it - it was the same in Thailand - It does keep the power usage down that’s for sure - she uses a fan rather than the A/C - I don’t mind the little geckos - they are scared of me but the mosquitoes do bite - no malaria risk in PP but annoying when they buzz in your ear. Apparently power averages about US$30 for the month if you use A/C a lot - we don’t so I guess it will be way lower. I saw the water bill for 2 months from the previous occupant - the landlady was staying in just the airconditioned bedroom - her bill was about US$1.50 (dolar fifty for 2 months). We have cable - although I have no idea whether it is official or bootlegged - I suspect the latter. CNN/ESPN/HBO and almost every language you could name along with many Thai and Khmer channels - reception isn’t great but I suspect that may be the length of the cable - mybe I will invest in a signal booster box.
No internet at home but that’s okay it is apparently expensive. I will go to one of the many restaurants tomorrow which have free wifi and post this entry.
For now - her new friends seem to have gone - time for me to shower.
Netxt morning: Sitting at riverfront cafe having just had great coffee and club sandwich - the Cambodians do serve amazing coffee - something good left by the Fench. Everywhere on the river has free wi-fi - for customers - this is where most of whitey is to be found down by the river not where I am living albeit it is only 3 blocks away. Da and her brother going shopping for more stuff while i am here - they dont want me with tem - they will pay about half the price if I am not there - excited to get an electric kettle and coffee mugs today so I can indulge myself - its the little pleasures which count.
Last night we only used the fan, no air conditioning and we were perfectly comfortable - power bills stand to go even lower.
Saturday, October 17, 2009
Laundry Day
I had 3 shirts, one t-shirt, 5 pairs underwear and 4 pairs socks washed, dried and ironed at little laundry stand across from the hotel - 24 hour turnaround - 100THB - that's about US$3.33 - yes three dollars thirty three - not a bad deal I think, plus they are the nicest people with the cutest 2 year old kid you could ever imagine.
Happy with my choice
I am very happy with the decision I made to buy the condo in Jomtien - took a walk out there today and found whole new pluses to the immediate area. A great fresh food and meat market hidden across the street - no foreigners, just Thais, which means the prices will be about a third of those in the grocery stores which target the Farang. New shophouse development going up right next to entry way to the complex - bound to be a laundry, a massage, a bar and a restaurant (and probably a 7-11 despite there being one 100m up the street). The distance from the beach is just right - enough to keep the area peaceful yet only 10 minutes walk. Jomtien Beach is totally different than Pattaya - wide, clean and mostly Thai families enjoying their day off - you dont get accosted every 10m by some female (and some not female) inquiring "where you go - I go with you?" - not that there's anything wrong with that - it has its time and place but gets a little old after a while. Almost made a big mistake - filming as I walked rather than watching where I was going, encountered a soft piece where they are building a new road and went over on my ankle - thankfully heard no snap and was able to walk on it for about another hour with minor pain - that could have put a cramp on the plans as I am flying to Cambodia tomorrow - will be more careful in the future.
Video later when I get around to uploading it.
Video later when I get around to uploading it.
Friday, October 16, 2009
Water water everywhere...
Woke up this morning to flooded streets - I never even heard the rain - not an uncommon event at this time of the year and in this less than perfectly designed city fortunately they do a far better job designing the buildings with high curbs - several streets leading to the beach were torrential rivers washing away the sand as they cascaded into the sea. Had an appointment with the condo sales guy and I needed to go drop off some laundry so I did my share of wading in flip-flops through some rather unsavory water. A few pictures attached.
Evidently a Dutchman designed this underground garage:
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)